Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Day 360: Underground River

After all the bureaucracy yesterday, today was the day I finally got to see the subterranean river - another world heritage site in the Philippines. As seems to be usual in the Philippines, the way there was long and uncomfortable. The village of Sabang is about three hours by van from Puerto Princesa, and the underground river another twenty minutes by boat from Sabang. Unfortunately, our van driver drove like a lunatic. The road was narrow and winding, but the driver sped through in a manner that made me feel like I was in a roller-coaster. It took all my concentration to keep from throwing up...

Climbing off the boat, we were greeted by a beautiful white beach with blue water and gorgeous limestone formations on the side - a view that made me instantly forget the van-induced nausea ;-)


From the beach, a short trail led through the forest to a small bay - the mouth of the underground river.


We were made to wear helmets and life vests, and then crammed into a small wooden boat that would take us on a tour of the river's navigable part. Since there is no light once you enter the river cave, there was a big battery sitting in the front of the boat, powering a hand lamp. I was lucky enough to get to hold the lamp, so I could look where I wanted when I wanted :-) Whenever the guide - sitting in the back of the boat, paddling - wanted to point out a specific rock formation, he told me where to point the lamp so everybody could see.

The interior of the cave/river was stunning. There were huge caverns with a 60 meter high ceiling, bats fluttering around, and fantastic rock formations everywhere I looked.


Far too soon, the tour was over and we had to brace ourselves for another roller-coaster ride in the van. In the parking lot, the guide was talking to the rest of the group in Tagalog - the group consisted of six Filipinos and me. I wasn't really listening, assuming I wouldn't understand anyway, when my ears suddenly caught the words 'holy water' and 'holy shit' - in the same sentence. I still have no idea what the guide was talking about, but it got everybody laughing (including me, even though I doubt that I laughed for the same reason as the rest of the group.)

On the way back, we made a stop at a rock formation called Elephant cave. This is pretty representative of what I saw of the landscape on Palawan today (remember I had to keep my eyes closed most of the time to avoid getting sick in the van): flat surfaces covered in rice paddies, sharp limestone rocks jutting out from time to time, and forested hills in between.